Our two-week train trip ended in Zagreb, Croatia. We enjoyed our 5-day stay in the capital city. Approximately 20 million tourists visit Croatia each year, yet only around 1 million visit the capital. We found this an advantage. There were fewer crowds and more locals enjoying the city. As tourists, we were welcomed everywhere we went. Zagreb is a less polished city compared to other capitals, but we grew to like the people and the city very much. Many building facades were being repaired from the 2020 earthquake damage while we were there.
Learn more about our train trip here: Amazing European Train Trip
Where to Stay in Zagreb
Since we arrived by train, we booked the centrally located Sheraton Zagreb Hotel for our stay. Our hotel was conveniently located within walking distance of the train and bus stations. We were able to walk to the historic areas of Zagreb easily from our hotel. Our room was very comfortable and spacious, and the staff offered helpful suggestions. We rarely use the pools in hotels, but we did go for a swim here in the large indoor pool and admired the huge gym.
Things to do in Zagreb
Take a Walking Tour
We booked a walking tour with GuruWalk on the first morning. These walking tours are always helpful and fun to do. We have enjoyed all of our GuruWalk walking tours. So far, we have booked tours in 7 different cities with success! This time we tried a food tour called the Crobites Tour with Katia. I think it was one of the best tours we’ve experienced! Katia explained some of Croatia’s complicated history as we toured the Dolac market area and the historical districts of the city.
We sampled foods directly from the farmers at the market. The fresh cheeses were our favourite! The seafood market was expansive and a little smelly. We tried food such as Burek, and a fruit brandy called Rakija. We would never have discovered these on our own. By the end of the tour, we knew where we wanted to return for tasty meals. We walked many kilometres that day! It was nice to be able to return to the hotel to reset before heading out for dinner. Here’s what Day 1 looked like!
There are Many Museums in Zagreb
We usually visit one or two museums when visiting a capital city to help us learn more about the culture of the city/country. Zagreb has all the traditional museums you’d expect in a capital city. It also has some unusually themed museums. For example, here are a few of the quirky museums found in Zagreb:
- Museum of Broken Relationships
- Nikola Tesla Technical Museum
- Museum of Illusions
- Museum of Torture
- Museum of Chocolate
I wondered about a few of these. We planned to visit the Nikola Tesla Museum, but it was closed due to a national holiday. We tried the Chocolate Museum instead.
The Chocolate Museum of Zagreb
We found The Chocolate Museum along a busy street near the Evangelica Church. It describes the history and geography of chocolate through media, artifacts and displays. Explanations were in Croatian and English. The entrance ticket includes cocoa/chocolate samples to try after each timeline section of the museum. It was quite interesting and enjoyable. There were many interactive displays.
This hot chocolate cup was carefully designed to allow those with moustaches to enjoy a mess-free way to sip hot cocoa.
Day Trip to Sokolovac
We decided to take a day trip out to Craig’s grandpa’s former home of Sokolovac. We were able to walk to a local car rental agency from our hotel. We booked the rental one day ahead when we realized that the town was too small to reach easily by train.
Sokolovac was about a 90-minute drive from Zagreb. We were curious about the village and wondered if there were any signs of Craig’s family from the 1920’s.
It was an easy drive out into the countryside. We visited the small church in the quiet village, walked through a couple of cemeteries and admired the older homes. Unfortunately, we found no trace of Craig’s family. I had never seen half a plot for sale before!
One of the best Croatian lunches we ate was at the local Hunt Club in Sokolovac.
We also drove through the nearby, much larger and picturesque town of Koprivnica. We enjoyed our drive day. The roads were in good repair, and the traffic was sparse compared to other places we have visited.
The following day, while in Zagreb, we tried to obtain more information about Craig’s grandfather’s family at the National Archives. Unfortunately, archivists’ queries are only possible for Croatian nationals. We had to accept that Craig’s grandpa’s life before coming to Canada remains an untold story.
Our Visit to Zagreb’s Upper and Lower Towns
In 1851, the rival towns of Kaptol (Upper Town) and Gradec (Lower Town) merged, and the Medvescak stream between them became a road. Zagreb got its name by combining the two towns’ names. Today, it is a popular tourist and local meeting place with many restaurants and historic buildings. We were there on a Saturday morning, and it was filled with residents meeting friends for a relaxed breakfast. Coffee culture is taken seriously here. In the evening, restaurants cater to the pub goers.
We climbed the hill to enjoy the view from the Upper Town, where we explored the church and medieval streets. The walk back down was much more enjoyable along the old cobbled streets.
Dining in Zagreb
Outdoor cafes were very popular despite the cool November days. Many local cafes serve only coffee and pastries early in the day. Then they are the place to have a drink after work. We noticed on a rainy day that people smoked inside these small establishments.
Thanks to the advice of our tour guide, Katia, we tried quite a few of the traditional foods. Burek is a food that is eaten as a hearty breakfast and lunch. We loved the meals at the Plac on both our visits. We tried the traditional cevapcipci (meat skewers on a fluffy bun). We also found a tasty meal at The Taste of India. On our last evening, we enjoyed a delicious Japanese dinner. Kiyomi was a beautifully decorated space with attentive servers.
Our Final Thoughts about Zagreb
Our first impression of Zagreb when we disembarked from the train on a cold November night was not great, but it picked up quickly! I think a three-day visit would be plenty of time to get the feel of the place. English was widely spoken, and we were warmly welcomed in all establishments. Most activities and dining establishments were affordable. The traditional Croatian foods are definitely in the category of comfort foods, which we appreciated! The unexpected national holiday closures gave us time to relax, enjoy the hotel amenities and do laundry before heading off to our next destination. Zagreb was a great endpoint for our European train trip!
